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MY SUMMER 1997 TRIP TO SLOVAKIA

PART TWO

Friday I rushed to Czech republic for an evening at Straznice festival and met many friends there. Same evening I transferred to Eastern Slovakia as Saturday my Vancouver friend Janko Hruska was getting married in village called Oreske near Humenne. I was the last guest arriving just prior to the prepossession to the church. I was really glad that I made it, as Janko Hruska is a good friend of mine. The wedding was just fantastic and we were dancing till the wee hours of morning. In the morning without any sleep I transferred to upper Hron region to attend the festival of Upper Hron at Helpa. This was fantastic and I didn't really feel tired. Here I met my Canadian friend from Toronto, Ondro Mihal, who was also taking lots of pictures and videotaping. On the way from the festival I made a stop at a salas in Lucatin to visit my friend the Baca. I had some real good cold zincica and photographed his Cuvac dogs for the next issue.

Monday I went to do some more research and to visit my friend the Salesian order priest Father Vit Usak. It was a memorable visit as I discovered direct link between him and my client. I stopped at Sasovsky castle and climbed it. The views are just spectacular and the castle is beautiful.

Tuesday I met our reporter Claudia Veghova in Prievidza and we went to eastern part of Slovakia to do a research in Chorvaty a tiny village located almost at the Hungarian border. Well it turned out to be another 100 % genealogical hit, as we were able to find my client's first cousin. I went with Claudia back to Komarno and next morning I went to Hungary, Ostrihom which was the seat of Archbishop for many years prior to the Turkish Invasion. At which time the archbishop’s offices moved to Trnava in today's Slovakia. In the Christian museum I discovered Monstrance, gold glass, altars and Easter grave carved out of wood from Hronsky Benadik and also Possonyi Madonna-Bratislava's virgin Mary from the Dome The St. Martin's Cathedral in Bratislava.

Wednesday I visited Viglas castle near Zvolenska Slatina, Dobra Niva, Castle Modry Kamen, Bzovik and Zvolen. Here I stayed for the Banska Bystrica's opera performance of Verdi's Nabucco, performed in the castle's courtyard.

Friday July 3rd, I went to Vychodna. This year has marked my 10th anniversary of coming to Vychodna festival. I have been to every festival since 1987 with the exemption of 1995. I was an official guest of the festival, since 50 of my pictures that I donated to the organizing committee were published in the program. This was a great honor for me. The weather wasn't the greatest, but Friday's program of SLUK called Hara Vara went on without any rain. Hara Vara was the last musical creation of my friend late Svetozar Stracina. The program got mixed reviews by the critics some positive some not so positive. Well, all I can tell you it was different, however very professionally done in every detail. I did like it as a performance. Saturday morning started in the Lutheran church with spiritual folk songs by performers from Strba, Terchova, Liptovske Sliace and Telgart. Following this program there was a tribute to the late composer Svetozar Stracina in the Catholic Church. Soon after it started to rain and several performances including the annual procession of all folk groups' participants were cancelled. Towards evening the weather has improved enough for the program called "From the best." These were performances of the folk dance groups from many regions of Slovakia that won recognition at the all state competition of folk dance groups held in Povazska Bystrica. Performing were Zeleziar from Kosice, Druzba from Trencin, Vranovcan from Vranov nad Toplou, Povazan from Povazska Bystrica, Marina from Zvolen and Kopaniciar from Myjava. Sunday morning as every year there was a program of the guests from Italy, USA, Portugal North Setin republic, and Yugoslavia. Of course my favorite was the USA group from Provo, American Folk Dance Ensemble Brigham Young University. The audience couldn't get enough of them; they were just fantastic in every way. Early afternoon belonged to groups from Czech Republic in the program called "Neighbors." Moravian groups from Velka nad Velickou, Mikulov, Rokycany and Czech group from Prague were performing. My friend Cyril Zalesak directed the final program of the festival called "From Tatras to Danube." This was very pretentious program as groups from pretty well whole Slovakia were performing. And soon the 43rd year of Vychodna has come to an end. Reception followed in the evening for invited guests at hotel Hybe near by. Here the organizers and guests said last good byes and we all look forward to Vychodna 1998.

Immediately after the reception I headed to Eastern Slovakia as I had more research to do and didn't want to leave it hanging above my head for later date. I traveled until I got a bit sleepy, so at 2:30 in the morning I arrived at Hotel Saris in Presov. It was really bad, smelly, dirty, and expensive to add insult to injury. I will never ever stay in this hotel again. They should just close it down or pay the guest a fee for staying there.

In the morning I went to Breznicka found family of my client and followed to Vydran and Cabalovce where I was successful again in finding missing family for another client.

Few years ago I did photographed all the wooden churches in Eastern Slovakia and I wanted to improve the pictures with help of two flashes and umbrellas so I went to the wooden churches again and photographed Mirola, Prikra, Ulicske Krive, Rusky Potok, Topola, Kalna Roztoka, Hrabova Roztoka, Ruska Bystra, Inovce, Bodruzal, Krajne Cierno, Semetkovce, and Jedlinka.

Few days later after finishing the Churches, I traveled to Martin to visit open-air museum of Orava's village in Jahodnicke Haje near Martin. I did visit this skanzen in 1989 and remember how it looked then and now it was even more beautiful and larger with many added projects finished. Just a pleasant and relaxing visit. From here I traveled to Strecno castle high above the river Vah and to Teplicka nad Vahom to see the naturally mummified body of Zofia Bosnakova.

Friday early afternoon it was time to go to the 32nd Folklore Celebrations under Polana-Detva. Dana has report on following pages. I would like to mention few programs and they are The School of Prof. Nosal, program for his life's achievements in the area of choreography by his former students. The other is being at the celebration at the Detva's city hall where Prof. Stefan Nosal received honorary citizenship of Detva.

Sunday evening I went to Eastern Slovakia again as I had some filming job at Vinne castle and surrounding area. Finished late afternoon and went to Snina my favorite hotel located at Snina's lakes, Hotel Kamei. Just fantastic as before. The rooms are clean spacious, the service in the restaurant is superb, it couldn’t be better, and so is the food all well worth the money.

Monday I went all the way almost to the Ukrainian border to village called Nova Sedlica as the wooden church in Humenne skanzen is from this village. Funny thing has happened to me when looking for the skanzen. For some strange reason I thought that it was located in Michalovce and I did look for it for about 1/2 hour before realizing that the skanzen isn't in Michalovce at all but it is in Humenné. I guess I am getting old. Perhaps I was just getting tired from all this traveling, and I was. Well I made it to the skanzen 1/2 hour before closing that was enough. You see they close the gates to public hour before closing and leave you browsing freely for another hour. I got permission to photograph the church inside and I was happy. This skanzen is small and very well designed and in an hour you walk through centuries of village's traditions and you don't feel like walking a marathon. I will return to this skanzen in some future issue. From here I went to Svidnik, where I usually stay in Hotel Rubin, reasonably priced, new, nice and clean but I have something to say about the service in the restaurant. The food by the way is excellent, but the service? The girls speak only Slovak and have no clue about basics when I told them in Slovak that I would like to see the menu instead of Jedalny listok, I was looked at as if I was an alien from another planet. This is I feel elementary basics of service. Also about 1/2 hour prior to closing in the evening these servers are promenading through the restaurant as if they were blind and deaf as they don’t want any unexpected rush of service prior to closing. I refused to pay my bill and asked to see the manager, well he never showed up but I got served the beer I wanted. The problem in Svidnik is that this hotel simply doesn’t have any competition so what you see is what you get and if you don’t like it you have no place to go. So I guess that is why they have attitude such as this.

The next days I spent in Western Slovakia with my Godson at their summer home in Bure. Few days later I went visit my friend the Salesian order priest Father Vit Usak in Hronsky Benadik to continue research connected to Katlovce that I started at the beginning of my trip. Yes Father Usak and my client are family and his father was my client’s father’s brother. Few days later I went to folk festival in Liptovska Teplicka, report is on following pages.

Following week I spent visiting ruins of castles in all parts of Slovakia. I visited a total of 23 castles and they will be featured in the latest movie "Journeying Through Slovakia 1997" to be released in few weeks. The final festival on my two months journey was Koliesko at Kokava nad Rimavicou. I was really impressed with performance of Folk dance group Javorcek whose dancers all are mentally and physically challenged. They were performing with folk dance group Bezanka and that was truly unforgettable performance with everybody in the audience cheering them on. Here I was a guest of my friend and the director of Vychodna festival, choreographer Pavol Butor. We all had a blast at his parent’s house. Sunday early morning I traveled to photograph near by Churches in Rimavske Brezovo, Kraskovao, Driecany, Male Teriakovce and Rimavska Bana. Saturday afternoon belonged to folk dance groups of Kokava and surrounding areas and the evening to the people of Upper Hron and that as usual did hit my soft spot, as I love the folk traditions, dances and songs of Horehron region. Late that night I traveled to Bratislava. Next day I packed said good bye to my friends and at midnight I went to Munich. And my two months in Slovakia have come to an end. I logged over 18000 Km during this trip. I am sure I will return soon.

GO BACK TO TRAVEL

Published in the Slovak Heritage Live newsletter Volume 5, No. 3, Fall 1997
Copyright © Vladimir Linder 1997 
3804 Yale Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada V5C 1P6
The above article may not be copied, reproduced, republished, or redistributed by any means including electronic, without the express written permission of Vladimir Linder. All rights reserved.